Climb the legendary Eiger from Grindelwald, not for the faint hearted

Of all the world-class peaks in the Alps, few can touch the formidable reputation of the Eiger. The 3,970m bastion of adventure is one of a trio of famous peaks in the Jungfrau region, and is notorious for its harsh climbing conditions, mythical history, and spectacular views. This is not a climb for novices. 

The Eiger shot to fame in August 1935, when two German climbers, Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer, froze to death while attempting to scale its merciless north face. This solid slab of ice and exposed limestone stretches a full vertical mile into the clouds, and is in near-constant shadow due to its position. At least 64 climbers have fallen prey to the climb since 1935, earning the Eiger its reputation as one of the world’s trickiest ascents.

But although the north face remains shrouded in infamy, the Eiger has plenty of alternative routes to its coveted summit.

One of the best and most popular is via the mountain’s Mittellegi Ridge. This challenging path leads climbers East, past glacial vistas and stunning views of neighbouring peaks, up and over high grade rock, and through sections of vertical climbing and high exposure to the summit. 

The journey to the top of Eiger begins in the charming mountain village of Grindelwald. An attraction in itself, the quintessentially Swiss neighbourhood provides panoramic views of the Jungfrau region, with its lush Alpine valleys, crystalline lakes and soaring snow-capped peaks. Sweet snow chalets pepper the village hills, and bars warmed with roaring fires serve up schnapps and live music into the small hours. 

Eiger climbing expedition

Its unique location at the heart of the Jungfrau big three makes Grindelwald the obvious choice for climbers looking to scale the world-famous peaks. Eiger hopefuls should catch the Jungfraubahn cogwheel railway, up to the Eismeer station. The train usually stops here for around 10 minutes to allow tourists to take photos of the spectacular Eismeer glacier, but in climbing season you will likely disembark with a horde of other adventurers headed for the Ridge. 

From here, head to the Mittellegi hut by traversing a section of glacier and a section of belayed rock climbing. There’s no messing around here, as the hard vertical work starts straight off the bat. The approach to the hut is tricky and complex, but worth the effort. This section should take between 3 – 4 hours to complete, and climbers should be aware of potential rock falls, as some patches are packed very loose. One of the most intriguing parts of the ascent to the hut is the hidden tunnels, which many climbers stumble upon accidentally. These can be the key to overcoming particularly challenging stretches, although you will probably have to crawl through them on your stomach as they are particularly narrow!

The final stretch up to the Mittellegi hut is the most challenging of the whole route. It ranks a 5.8/9, and you will have to engage physical strength and creativity to navigate the small and sparse footholds. 

The hut’s position on the ridge is almost too precarious to be real, as it hangs over a sheer exposed drop on two sides. But from it you will be spoiled by fantastic views, with a clear look at the green pastures surrounding Grindelwald on one side, and crystalline peaks on the other. 

Most travellers opt for an early start the day of the main climb. This has the joint benefit of helping you enjoy a less crowded ascent, as well as ensuring you have enough daylight hours to complete the descent before sunset. 

Your ridge climb will begin with a long stretch of Alpine scenery, as you climb across the airy arête. The views are stunning, but the route will require intensive and technical climbing for its duration. Helpful local guides have pitched hundreds of feet of thick fixed line to aid you in your ascent. You are also likely to come across plenty of bolts on your way up. It is advisable to bring your own rope just in case. 

The narrow ridge is incredibly exposed, and you will need to combine pitched-out climbing and scrambling to navigate it. Climbers will find icy patches on this section, which add a welcome physical challenge as you approach the summit. 

During the final push to the top, the terrain levels out a little, offering welcome respite as you take in the panoramic views of the Bernese Alps. 

The descent will take you via the South Saddle, and requires traversing a steep rocky section which will likely include some snow. 

In total the journey down to Jungfraujoch train station should take you around 4 hours, if you keep up a steady pace.